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Messages - gingertomantiques

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2
Antique Questions Forum / Re: Art Deco Lamp 1920-1930
« on: May 10, 2011, 04:56:09 pm »
contact Bonhams, send them pics via email & they will then tell you an auction estimate & the best sale room for it.
If its right it needs to be in London

3
Antique Questions Forum / Re: old silver ornate hairbrush
« on: April 22, 2011, 05:16:37 am »
is there any sign of wear (copper / brass colour) if not might be continental silver  (white metal) not as valuable as hallmarked silver, needs testing

4
From pics it looks like it is Royal Brierley crystal, GB (Stourbridge glass maker) factory closed a few years back,
Stevens & williams closed at this date, Webb Corbett possibly, Thomas Webb no  , Stuart crystal doubtful,

5
Yes it is devalued,
 staining is never a good thing, also in UK this type of plate is not a rare, in general the rule for ceramic collectors is it must be perfect. There are some exeptions like delft

6
Antique Questions Forum / Re: Broken chair-what should I do?
« on: March 21, 2011, 07:11:26 pm »
No need for screws or nails, the joints were designed to be knocked apart with a soft hammer. I suspect a previous repair with the wrong glue has caused the split
You need animal glue,
because most animal glues are soluble in water, they can be used for joints which may need to be separated for repairs, thereby making joints easily reversible and repairable.
Adhesive products such as animal glue, allows joints to separate easily with the application of heat and steam. So because of the ability of this adhesive to stick to itself, a repairer can apply new glue to the joint and reclamp it. 
PVA glues do not have this property once they've cured, & i suspect this has caused the problem.
Scrape off the old glue, & re glue with animal glue & clamp together. The glue is water based & can be coloured using van dyke crystals, make sure you remove any xs glue before it cures

7
Sorry no before or after pics, but have used this to restore a stained charlotte rhead bowl, & a blue & white staffordshire platter

8
Its a good idea to test a small unseen area first if possible

9
use only 40% hydrogen peroxide. This is not the peroxide you buy at the chemist. You need to buy the stronger type that is found at a beauty supply store. Always wear protective gloves to protect your skin and pour into the plastic container. soak the items sometimes for a month, and up to 6 months. I like my items to be completely covered as they soak.
The peroxide loses strength over time. You will know when to replace the peroxide because it tends to get discolored, and starts to have an odor. The brown crazing is usually old grease that has become trapped in the crazing of the glaze. This old grease darkens with age.
If I have a piece of porcelain that is more delicate, and I don’t want it soaking in peroxide for any length of time, I simply wrap the piece in old white rags soaked in peroxide, only putting the wet rags on the spots that need whitening. I place it in a large rubbish bag, and seal it. If using rubbish bag method, the rags will need re-soaking every few days, as they dry out.

Clean your pieces very carefully

Use great care with any cleaning method. It’s a good idea to try the method on an inexpensive piece before attempting to clean valuable pieces. After you have the piece as clean as you can, wash it with soap and warm water to clean off and residue of the peroxide.

NEVER USE CHORINE BLEACH! This will destroy the pottery, porcelain or ceramic piece. It literally eats it from the inside out. It makes the glaze flake of the piece.

Also, please make sure that you carefully look over any piece that you are going to soak. If restoration or repair has been made on a piece of pottery, porcelain or ceramic, chances are the piece will be ruined in this cleaning process. If in doubt ask a specialist in restorations before you try this.

10
Disagree,
constantly breaking up these sets , selling as trios, there are tea pot collectors & always someone who will pay a premium for a replacement piece

11
Antique Questions Forum / Re: POWDER HORN
« on: February 22, 2011, 04:16:55 pm »
thanks everyone, had a thought
if its for shot & therefor possibly hunting & not military, could it be an heraldic coat coat of arms

12
Antique Questions Forum / Re: POWDER HORN
« on: February 22, 2011, 01:05:46 pm »
thanks wayward - any body know the regiment

13
Antique Questions Forum / Re: POWDER HORN
« on: February 22, 2011, 09:45:09 am »
the barrel measure unscrews leaving the ring which is riveted to the horn. i think it is for powder as the front divider appears to be missing ( see hole on arm above front slot ) & the base is copper which was used with powder as it will not spark causing ignition. also lf lead shot then would be a hunting horn so would expect a none military scrimshaw design.






14
Antique Questions Forum / Re: POWDER HORN
« on: February 22, 2011, 05:50:24 am »
think ive sorted the pics

15
The good news is it has a value, the bad its not high.
This is really a cabinet piece as if used the gold gilding would soon wear. It does contain gold but not of great value.
Against it the pattern is very plain, the shape is common, the maker is not really collectable,
for it is is complete & perfect
UK auction £20 - £40

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