Author Topic: Project Topic: Sideboard  (Read 8476 times)

waywardangler

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #30 on: April 18, 2010, 12:07:33 am »
After removing what type of finish is on there, I would try and lighten the stained spots with bleach as much as possible.  Then I would see what shade of stain would 'hide' all the imperfections as much as possible and that is the stain I would go with.  I would hope you would not have to go so dark it hides the beauty of the grain or the depth and richness of the carvings.  I really like the carvings and lion heads.

cogar

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2010, 07:07:20 am »

Sapphire, your piece is made of oak and I would use a “liquid” stripper rather than a “paste” stripper to remove the finish. If the finish is lacquer then use a lacquer thinner to remove it. And being that it is oak you can use a wire or copper brush but only brush in the direction of the grain. Some of those black “spots” looks like they were caused by a reaction to the nails in the wood and they will be almost impossible to remove but as Wayward suggested, bleach should lighten them up some.

And a “stain conditioner” is not necessary, that wood is already “conditioned” as much as it will ever be. And ps:, a “stain conditioner” is only necessary on new or unfinished wood and the cheapest is a 50-50 mix of shellac and wood alcohol. Buy a small can of each, mix them together and if you keep it sealed tightly it will keep for years. 
 
And a dark stain you might want to check out is a Martin-Senour “American Cherry”. Here, I took a picture so you could see what it looks like. This is made of cedar with a Luan plywood back and has 2 coats of “American Cherry” stain and a Min-Wax “satin” PolyCrylic finish on it.

Hey, and I love that Varathane, it is better than the PolyCrylic.

talesofthesevenseas

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #32 on: April 18, 2010, 09:58:28 am »
Ah! I didn't realize it was the "Lion Sideboard" that you were referring to. Wow, it would look neat and very Gothic in dark stain, wouldn't it?!

Well, in my very humble, rookie, non-expert opinion, since this one is going to be going through some repair/restoration anyway, I wouldn't think that redoing the finish would harm the value or really be a loss of it's history. Anyone have a comment on that?
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KC

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #33 on: April 18, 2010, 10:45:54 am »
If she is redoing for historical reasons....stick with the current.  However, since it isn't a Smithsonian piece in the view of "die hard collectors" she needs to do what makes her happy.

I personally would darken it up to go along with my other furniture and tastes.  I wouldn't go burgundy tho' -  Sometimes the woods can take on a eerie red - like a life of it's own and just jump out at you.  You want it to be a darkened color that will reflect age/time and integrity.

Still like this piece!
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regularjoe2

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #34 on: April 18, 2010, 11:24:44 am »
The bottom line is having a cabinet finish that you will enjoy/like for years to come .

In the U.S. , during the late 1960's through the present , many pieces of antique furniture became available to buy (presumably due to previous owners passing away) .
Along with this small 'flood' of furniture , came businesses that specialized in stripping off old finishes (as well as individuals who'd strip their own stuff) .

A majority of original oak furniture of the era as yours is , sapphire , (that I have seen) was stained quite dark .
This gave pieces a 'dark & heavy' appearance esp to buyers in the late 20th century .
With the advent of so many items being made from/with synthetic components , I think folks became a bit nostalgic for solid wood furniture .
The fashion became to be , in a fair portion of the 'refinished' market , light-to-medium stains on oak , making the wood grain quite visable and the cabinet less 'dark & heavy' .

In original finishes on some old oak furniture , dark colors were applied so as to mimic more expensive woods (esp. walnut & other hardwoods) , which would/could be placed alongside of existing furniture & would 'match' .

The purpose of any wood stain is to alter the appearance of the actual bare wood (some would say 'enhance' , rather than 'alter') .

Dark stains can be used to 'hide' many imperfections in a piece , and often work for the purpose .... sometimes not so much .

Whatever color you choose , you should use a 'filler' (since oak is an 'open-grain' wood) prior to staining your piece , for a really nice finish that looks like a grown-up did it (IMO) . :)
« Last Edit: April 18, 2010, 11:37:26 am by regularjoe2 »

sapphire

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #35 on: April 18, 2010, 01:41:41 pm »
Thanks everyone for the input.  I had rethought the 'burgundy' and realized (based on hair experience  ;)) that what's natural and what's added don't always compliment each other.  I'm going to borrow the local hardware store's larger sample book, which will give me a much better idea than the 1" x 1/2" image on their pamplet.  She's never going to look perfect.......and definitely NOT Smithsonian material, but I know I'll be satisfied with the results. Can't really be any worse than where we started.  ;)

Now regularjoe, explain 'filler' to me! That's a term totally foreign to my vocabulary when it doesn't pertain to nail holes, etc.

Cogar, how do I determine if it's a lacquer finish?  If it is lacquer, is lacquer thinner 'required' or would stripper accomplish the
same result?

regularjoe2

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #36 on: April 18, 2010, 02:04:16 pm »
Sapphire , filler that I mentioned is a very viscous mat'l (sorta like a thick paint) , usually applied with a brush & wiped-down (across , not 'with' the grain) with cloth .
Filler is then allowed to fully dry , and then lightly sanded .
Sometimes a person will choose to apply filler twice , if 'more is revealed' after the initial sanding .

The purpose of it is to 'fill' all of the open parts of woodgrain (pores) , so as to have a flat surface to apply finish coats upon .
It will also fill other small imperfections , such as checking , cracking , glue seams & 'lifts' in wood .


You may have seen finishes on oak , for example , where you can actually feel the grain through the finish , and see little 'dips' all over the place (wood pores) - this is one indicator of an un-filled finish on open-grain woodwork .
« Last Edit: April 18, 2010, 02:16:25 pm by regularjoe2 »

sapphire

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #37 on: April 18, 2010, 02:35:16 pm »
Ahhh, OK gotcha!! Now to check our local stores to see if we have that in Canajun   ;)

Just did a search of Minwax products (the one I know for sure is available) and came across this, would it
be considered a 'filler'?

http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_preparation/lacquer_sanding_sealer.html
« Last Edit: April 18, 2010, 03:04:00 pm by sapphire »

regularjoe2

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Re: Project Topic: Sideboard
« Reply #38 on: April 18, 2010, 05:30:15 pm »
The lacquer product you've mentioned is not exactly the thing , but getting close to the neighborhood .
Minwax does have a filler-product that would work , depending on what your final finish is going to be .

You should choose products that are meant to be used together , so as to have a happy experience - for instance , don't use oil-based stains when top-coating with a water-based polyurethane , etc.

Rather than go into yet another missive , here's a link that's a good-ish primer on the whats & whys of fillers for wood : www.craftsman-style.info/finishing/034-fillers.htm