Author Topic: Auto Harp 1920ish??  (Read 3215 times)

lisalee21

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Auto Harp 1920ish??
« on: March 30, 2012, 07:34:59 pm »
Hello

I have an AutoHarp that belonged to my grandfather that was passed down to me by my mother. I am trying to get some info about it! I know it is from a place called sterling acutions and keys from branford ontario. I  cant seem to find a date on it. I do have a picture. I would love to bring it somewhere to get appraised. I am looking online but ebay only seems to have newer autoharps. Could anyone lend a hand ? Just really curious about this:D


here is the pic

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u438/lisalee211/small.jpg

High Res
http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u438/lisalee211/autoharp.jpg
« Last Edit: March 30, 2012, 07:46:41 pm by lisalee21 »

KC

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2012, 08:10:57 pm »
Sterling Actions & Keys Ltd was in business in Canada from to 1971.

Autoharps were popular later end of 1890 to 1930's. 

How many strings?  Patent Number?  Model Number?
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lisalee21

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2012, 08:19:19 pm »
Sterling Actions & Keys Ltd was in business in Canada from to 1971.

Autoharps were popular later end of 1890 to 1930's. 

How many strings?  Patent Number?  Model Number?


Hmm let me see if I can find it. Any tips on where it would be? Maybe on the back... I am always so scare to open the box and touch it! Its in great cond!! Full set of strings I even have the turning key! Ill look for a patent number and model number now.

Thank you so much for the quick responce!


lisalee21

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2012, 08:28:19 pm »
ok just checked no model number or patent number... :s not sure where else to check. I checked the book and it is only a song book.

Oh and 27 strings I think.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2012, 08:30:06 pm by lisalee21 »

fancypants

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2012, 09:09:03 pm »
Cool little oldie autoharp , lisalee21 .

The big deal with instruments is to have them in good working (& clean) order ... they're designed to be so .

When it comes to autoharps , condition of the 'felts' that contact (or do not contact) the strings is important , as they do wear with use , sometimes to the point of just muting a string , rather than the silencing the string can occur . Older ones (felts)  sometimes have been 'attacked' by moths , mildews &/or molds , so look for that too .
The potion of the instrument that contains the 'buttons' that are pressed (to 'auto-make') a chord can be removed for cleaning/adjustment/repairs (& also for installing a diff chord-felt & maybe finding the mod/pat #) as a unit .
Usually nobody but a musician or a lutier would know this ... it's not too hard to do if you are not too mechanically reclined .... there's a bunch of springs & posts that need to be properly aligned for a successful re-assembly , though .... the usual method for the older ones is to fully unscrew the fingerboard/feltbar  assembly , turn the instrument up-side-down & gently lift the autoharp body up off of the f-board assembly .... but sometimes the method is reversed - keeping the fingerboard 'on top' for disassembly (when the instrument has a 'fixed' index for the chordbar assembly) .

These little guys have been (& still are) used in classrooms all over the country ... fundamentally an easy instrument to strike chords upon , though can be finger-picked into making great music ... all this in a portable (& relatively inexpensive) instrument a portable piano for po' folks !

It's tuned in octaves , and is much better sounding when it has been so !

With funky old strings , the instrument will not have as good of tone & projection , so I'd say (if it were mine & going to be played) it's way past time for a new set .... have not bought a set for many moons , as my 'boys' walked away with my former autoharp , but it seems like they used to run around $45 USD for a set .

The construction methods used during the building of such instruments is important , esp since the frame/body of these types of stringed instruments is under quite some stress . Spruce-topped autoharps are generally better quality than other "toppings" .

I'd give it a very close inspection , esp at any & all areas that have been glued together .... also look for any bowing of the top & bottom (not a good thing, but common in older units) .

I wouldn't go too wild with anticipation of it's value just yet though ... see if it's a good solid unit before investing in a new set of strings (esp since a new set of strings usually is just a great selling point & adds little to the value of the instrument - it just improves it's condition , which is supposed to be good , from the get-go .

I suggest getting an autoharp pitch-pipe at a local music store , tuning your harp (& play it some) .... let it set for awhile & then play it & see how it holds it's tune (sometimes people get rid of autoharps when one or more tuning pegs go 'south') .

Temp & humidity affect these stringed instruments , so please keep this in mind , when storing the unit ... damp enough humidity with a fully-string tentioned autoharp can & will permanently warp the woods , to bad effect .
« Last Edit: March 30, 2012, 09:16:03 pm by fancypants »
" Methinks me the 'mental' in sentimental .... "

lisalee21

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2012, 09:22:26 pm »
Cool little oldie autoharp , lisalee21 .

The big deal with instruments is to have them in good working (& clean) order ... they're designed to be so .

When it comes to autoharps , condition of the 'felts' that contact (or do not contact) the strings is important , as they do wear with use , sometimes to the point of just muting a string , rather than the silencing the string can occur . Older ones (felts)  sometimes have been 'attacked' by moths , mildews &/or molds , so look for that too .
The body of the instrument that contains the 'buttons' that are pressed (to 'auto-make') a chord can be removed for cleaning/adjustment/repairs (& also for installing a diff chord-felt) .
Usually nobody but a musician or a lutier would know this ... it's not too hard to do if you are not too mechanically reclined .... there's a bunch of springs & posts that need to be properly aligned for a successful re-assembly , though .... the usual method for the older ones is to fully unscrew the fingerboard assembly , turn the instrument up-side-down & gently lift the autoharp body up off of the f-board assembly .... but sometimes the method is reversed - keeping the fingerboard 'on top' for disassembly (when the instrument has a 'fixed' index for the chordbar assembly) .

These little guys have been (& still are) used in classrooms all over the country ... fundamentally an easy instrument to strike chords upon , though can be finger-picked into making great music ... all this in a portable (& relatively inexpensive) instrument a portable piano for po' folks !

It's tuned in octaves , and is much better sounding when it has been so !

With funky old strings , the instrument will not have as good of tone & projection , so I'd say (if it were mine & going to be played) it's way past time for a new set .... have not bought a set for many moons , as my 'boys' walked away with my former autoharp , but it seems like they used to run around $45 USD for a set .

The construction methods used during the building of such instruments is important , esp since the frame/body of these types of stringed instruments is under quite some stress . Spruce-topped autoharps are generally better quality than other "toppings" .

I'd give it a very close inspection , esp at any & all areas that have been glued together .... also look for any bowing of the top & bottom (not a good thing, but common in older units) .

I wouldn't go too wild with anticipation of it's value just yet though ... see if it's a good solid unit before investing in a new set of strings (esp since a new set of strings usually is just a great selling point & adds little to the value of the instrument - it just improves it's condition , which is supposed to be good , from the get-go .

I suggest getting an autoharp pitch-pipe at a local music store , tuning your harp (& play it some) .... let it set for awhile & then play it & see how it holds it's tune (sometimes people get rid of autoharps when one or more tuning pegs go 'south') .

Temp & humidity affect these stringed instruments , so please keep this in mind , when storing the unit ... damp enough humidity with a fully-string tentioned autoharp can & will permanently warp the woods , to bad effect .


Wow thank you for all the information!! It is so nice to learn more info about this !! I will doing all the things you mentioned! I would be a bit scared to try and take it a part my self I would not want to break anytime. So I would maybe take it somewhere like a music store. If I wanted to get this appraised are there any places you recommend or do you have a ball park of what its worth today ? I dont see any bowing or damages. It really is in very good cond.

fancypants

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2012, 09:38:03 pm »
I'd still say the first & minimum work to be done would be a tuning/playing of the instrument that should happen before anything ...i.e. - you'll be able to actually say the harp is tuneable & stays in tune & functions properly , for appraisal/sale purposes .
Ya' might strike it lucky , esp if the harp has not been played much !

(warping should be checked with a good clean metal straight-edge , not just eye-balling it - but that (eyeballing) will give you a rough idea though ... check for this when the harp is tuned , with a light source 'behind' the straightedge [you'll see areas where light can be observed 'sneaking/leaking' under it) to disclose any areas of warpage )
" Methinks me the 'mental' in sentimental .... "

lisalee21

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Re: Auto Harp 1920ish??
« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2012, 09:46:00 pm »
I'd still say the first & minimum work to be done would be a tuning/playing of the instrument that should happen before anything ...i.e. - you'll be able to actually say the harp is tuneable & stays in tune & functions properly , for appraisal/sale purposes .
Ya' might strike it lucky , esp if the harp has not been played much !

(warping should be checked with a good clean metal straight-edge , not just eye-balling it - but that (eyeballing) will give you a rough idea though ... check for this when the harp is tuned , with a light source 'behind' the straightedge [you'll see areas where light can be observed 'sneaking/leaking' under it) to disclose any areas of warpage )

Ok will do ! Thank you for everything !!

Im taking lots of notes!!

:D