Need help datin g a chest of drawers.

[robgil]

Thanks Mart, might have a crack at one tomorrow.

[robgil]

Just to add, on further inspection the top is not veneered, it is around 1/4 inch thick. I can see through parts of broken veneer on the skirt and it is clearly visible on the back. The skirt all around it (front and sides) is veneered. So I am assuming it is mahogany allso? On one of the drawer runners I was able to remove a loose nail, it was a cut nail with a blacksmiths made squarish head, is that an indication to date? or were they fairly common even when pressed nails were being used?

[mart]

Just be prepared for a lot of hand sanding to get it right !!  But dont glue it down till you get a pretty good fit with the drawer,, just put a small brad front and back till you are sure !! Can remove brads if needed with a screwdriver as a wedge !!

[robgil]

Sounds good, the drawer rails are worn on a few and might need attention, or should I tailor the runners to take up the difference? It would be much easier if I could.

[mart]

Yes, you will have to tailor them to get them right !!  One end may be quite a bit thicker so get it as close as you can when cutting the shim then hand sand the rest !! That should get it close to what it was originally !!  If the drawer front fits square with the case and it slides in and out smoothly,, thats a good fit !!

[cogar]

Is it plausible to chisel the runner flat where the drawer has worn it then glue in some new wood? It wouldnt take much, probably 1/4 inch x 1/2 inch.

Robgil, now that is probably the way Bigwull would do it but I’m advising you not to because that would be a back-breaking long-time-doing task.

I suggest that you:

Step #1 – Make a “rail” (drawer runner) marking gauge (see picture below) out of a ¾” thick board with the length and height as shown on the photo. Now the purpose of the “rail” gauge is for “marking” the “cut” line for the height and horizontal angle of the new piece of wood to be glued or nailed on top of the worn-down part of the rail/runner.

Step #2 – cut 2 boards that are ¾” thick, …. the same length as the “rail” gauge ….. and a width that is less than the height of the drawer opening …… so that its edge can set lengthwise on top of rail.   

Step #3 – place a #2 board on top of a rail, ….. with the “rail” gauge on the “dust” board and tight against the rail and the #2 board …… and then mark a “cut” line on the #2 board.

Step #4 – “mark it” on its bottom edge for the rail that it was cut for …. and then use a bandsaw to cut the “new” rail piece off the #2 board.

 Step #4 – repeat the process for the other rail for the same drawer. Then lay the 2 pieces on their matching rails and “check” them for “fit”, first with a straight-edge or a framing square ….. and then the drawer itself. If they “fit” ….. a couple small nails will hold them in place. (and be sure to put paste wax on them when done)

[bigwull]

Is it plausible to chisel the runner flat where the drawer has worn it then glue in some new wood? It wouldnt take much, probably 1/4 inch x 1/2 inch.

Robgil, now that is probably the way Bigwull would do it but I’m advising you not to because that would be a back-breaking long-time-doing task.

I suggest that you:

Step #1 – Make a “rail” (drawer runner) marking gauge (see picture below) out of a ¾” thick board with the length and height as shown on the photo. Now the purpose of the “rail” gauge is for “marking” the “cut” line for the height and horizontal angle of the new piece of wood to be glued or nailed on top of the worn-down part of the rail/runner.

Step #2 – cut 2 boards that are ¾” thick, …. the same length as the “rail” gauge ….. and a width that is less than the height of the drawer opening …… so that its edge can set lengthwise on top of rail.   

Step #3 – place a #2 board on top of a rail, ….. with the “rail” gauge on the “dust” board and tight against the rail and the #2 board …… and then mark a “cut” line on the #2 board.

Step #4 – “mark it” on its bottom edge for the rail that it was cut for …. and then use a bandsaw to cut the “new” rail piece off the #2 board.

 Step #4 – repeat the process for the other rail for the same drawer. Then lay the 2 pieces on their matching rails and “check” them for “fit”, first with a straight-edge or a framing square ….. and then the drawer itself. If they “fit” ….. a couple small nails will hold them in place. (and be sure to put paste wax on them when done)

Here,You,..just you leave me out of this....I never said how to do the rails...you obviously did,nt read my posts....and here you are hitting this Poor Irishman...who has deep empty pooches wi...then use a Bandsaw...Did you never stop to think...."does he have a bandsaw"....from what I see here the simplest solution would be for you to do the job by proxy....he can give you all the fine measurements...in metric then you can convert them to inches so that you don,t get confused with our metric system.....ya know mm, cm m.
then you can make all the bits and then post them to him...bearing in mind you will have to convert all your measurement details into metric so that he can understand......"now if all this sounds like Gobbledygook....wel l, think what you,re doing to us...

[mart]

You know,, I am a simple person,, but if they don`t have woodworking tools, I would just take the measurements to the home improvement center and see if they have shims by the bundle in the length you need or longer !! I know they have them here and many stores will cut to your specifications if you buy the material there with just a small fee !!  In a pinch, a wooden yardstick would likely work !!

[robgil]

I'm a lucky boy, The runners under the drawer are removable so , I can remove and replace with new however they are mahogany so I will have to wait until I get some.
I'm afraid I dont have a band saw but its never stopped me before.

[mart]

Then don`t bother with shims, just replace the runner and be done with it !!   If you cant get mahogany, use oak !!

[robgil]

I think the runners in the cabinet were sacrificial as they seem to be soft wood, the runners on the bottom of the drawer (the easy ones to replace) were hard wood, seems a bit backwards to me.
You can just make the mahogany runner out here attached to the drawer side below the bottom panel.



The ones inside the cabinet are still screwed and need doing. Got tied up today so nothing done. Well, its snowing outside and the fire was lit, and it's Sunday, so roasted toes today.



I will get around to doing my runners, when the fire goes out and the snow stops.

[bigwull]

And you,re not tied to using oak..almost any hardwood will do...beech,ash,sycamore...or even a bit of Ramin....yeah toasty tootsies and a pint or two of Caffreys....much better than that English Pish...that masquerades as beer...yeah the English might be good at making Yorkshire puds but they sure as hell can,t make a decent beer....

[mart]

Yeah !!  Pine most likely if soft wood !!   Just enjoy the fire today !!

[bigwull]

Pine!!!!...don,t be silly woman....he wants to mend it...not rookie it.....

[robgil]

I could use Oak, I have plenty of it here. I would rather replace with like for like to preserve originality , why the made the sacrificial runner the one that is part of the cabinets internals is beyond me, or perhaps it is mahogany also, I need to check to be sure.