Author Topic: Small Clock Questions  (Read 6366 times)

Dean Perdue

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Small Clock Questions
« on: October 14, 2009, 05:29:47 pm »
This small clock measures a little over 4" x 5" and there is on the inside -The New Haven Clock Co. USA.
I have a few questions to run by you if possible:

What style would you describe this as?

Is this plastic material Celluloid?

The clock had no winding key when I got it, but it does start working every time it is picked up or moved (really miss the sound these old clocks make) so is there any recommendations on how to wind this clock after it has sat for who knows how many years?

Thanks

sapphire

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2009, 05:55:57 pm »
I think you're right on with the celluloid.  Here is another of their clocks, listed as celluloid.

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/old-vintage-new-haven-green-celluloid-desk


If yours is green, as it appears to be, I have an old vanity set (mirror, brush and comb) to match!   :D

talesofthesevenseas

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2009, 06:03:55 pm »
Not too long ago I took a clock of mine in for repair. According to the clock shop guy, they should be serviced every 30 years or so because the teeth on the gears wear down. Properly serviced, a good clock can outlive a couple of owners. I think it's worthwhile to invest in a good cleaning and servicing to keep them ticking away. If it were mine, I'd take it to a shop before attempting to wind it. A good clock repair place should also have a replacement key. Find one that specializes in clocks rather than watches.

I know what you mean about the sound of an old clock. They are very comforting in a funny kind of way.
Antiqueaholic in recovery

railman44

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2009, 08:25:05 pm »
One steadfast rule with old clocks that have a pendulum.  Never move or ship a clock with the pendulum still attached to the movement.  One should never ship a clock (not having a pendulum) or pocketwatch unwound.  Fine clocks take a special oil so please don't reach for the 3in1 general purpose oil.  Have a fine old clock serviced every 5 years by a competent jeweler.

Dean Perdue

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2009, 10:08:10 pm »
Thanks for the good advice guys, I'm happy I didn't try a key yet and cause some damage.
Appreciate you saving me from that blunder.

I never knew some clocks were that sensitive to movement.Something to remember.
Glad I learned the easy way this time around, for a change.

Amazing these styles used to be the in thing as many would call it downright ugly.

Oh well, an example of fashion history to me.
What a great time it must have been, when the US was on top and things were actually manufactured right here.

talesofthesevenseas

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2009, 10:08:42 pm »
Every five? That is good to know. Mine is not antique yet, so that is probably why I was told every thirty. Mine only dates to the 1970's although he said it was a very good, very well-made clock that should last for generations. Thanks for setting the record straight.
Antiqueaholic in recovery

cogar

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #6 on: October 15, 2009, 03:33:04 am »
Dean, just about any antique dealer will have a box of old keys. And the primary reason old clocks quit running is that the oil turns to a "varnish" and gums up the works. Puts a "drag" on the mechanism. Lighter fluid or WD-40 will "cut" it off.

Clock keys will have a square hole in the barrel but the size of the holes are not all the same for different clocks. So, if you go looking for a key, first check the size that you need.  And some clocks require a "double ended key" like pictured below.


railman44

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2009, 07:03:09 am »
Most competent jewelers will use an ultra-sonic device to clean a movement if the oil has gummed up over the years.  As I said earlier, there are special oils to use on clock movements.  The double ended key is used both for winding the clock and the small end is used to speed up or slow down a movement.  A jeweler will use his/her bench keys to determine the size key you need.  Important to have the right size key when winding.  You don't want any play when winding.  Your clock is very art-deco in design. ;D
« Last Edit: October 15, 2009, 07:14:17 am by railman44 »

cogar

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #8 on: October 15, 2009, 11:17:59 am »
I'm cheap so I always done my own clock fixing. Even dissassembled the mechanism of tall kitchen shelf clock and replaced a broken "mainspring" in it. And I always figured they didn't have very many special oils a hundred years ago so I just used 3-in-1 Oil figuring it was just as specially refined as what they were using back then.  Clock repair people don't like me telling such things though. ::) ::)

But now, one should never use but Honda oil in a Honda motorcycle or Caterpillar oil in a Caterpillar engine.

Dean Perdue

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #9 on: October 15, 2009, 01:08:31 pm »
Thanks Railman & Cougar

I wish I had your confidence and skill Cougar in maintaining/fixing this clock,but somehow I envision me taking the backplate off and then,with my luck,springs will go flying along with gears and cogs rolling out.

Then I'll bring it in and the repair person will ream me because I tried it myself.

So I guess at this point I'll do some checking around and if it's not too expensive in relation to the value of the clock, I'll put this into a skilled persons hands.

If on the other if hand the bill would be over what the clock is worth,would you recommend soaking the whole mechinism in this special oil before attempting to wind it?
« Last Edit: October 15, 2009, 01:43:06 pm by Dean Perdue »

D&b antiques

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #10 on: October 15, 2009, 01:28:59 pm »
The caseing appears to be Fake mother of pearl.

cogar

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #11 on: October 16, 2009, 07:32:11 am »
If on the other if hand the bill would be over what the clock is worth  would you recommend soaking the whole mechinism in this special oil before attempting to wind it?
   
Dean, soaking the whole mechanism in oil won’t work.

But anyway, the 1st thing is to find a key that will fit it. Then see if you can “wind it” but DON’T FORCE IT. You have to use some pressure but not a whole bunch.  And BE CAREFUL, some clocks “wind up” counterclockwise, and that wasn’t an oxymoron. Clockwise/counterclockwise refers to the directions the “hands” of the clock turns. There might even be an arrow on the back to show “winding” direction.

Anyway, it might not be “ticking” for two reasons: 1) it just needs winding up or 2) it had quit “ticking” and someone wound it up tight, which is indication that it is dirty or broken. When a clock don’t work the 1st thing every “fixer-upper” does is ….. wind it some more.

Anyway, if it just needs winding up then there is a good chance it will run OK. You just might have to “jiggle” it a few times for the first few hours of run time.

Dean, now for the tricky part if it doesn’t run or you just want to clean and/or oil the mechanism.

I can’t tell if the clock has a glass face on it or not. If not, you might have to remove the hands to remove the mechanism from the case by unscrewing that “cap bolt”. The minute hand will have a “square” hole in it to fit the square ended center shaft. The hour hand is just a “compression” fit on the hollow outer shaft and can be pulled off with a twisting action. The hour hand is always “set” to the minute hand, not vice versa. Very important to remember if your clock “chimes” the hour.

If it has a glass face that won’t open, then it also uses a “key” to set the time, ….. and the hands, the face and the mechanism all comes out of the case as one unit.

So, to remove the mechanism, lay it face down on a towel, open the back and there should be 4 screws holding the mechanism in place. Remove them and the mechanism should lift right up outta there.

But now to really clean n’ oil it you need to take the hands and face of it for 2 reasons. You don’t want to get oil, cleaning fluid or a dirty fingerprint on the face. And secondly, the minute hand shaft is a likely culprit for being in need of oil and/or getting “gummed up” and in need of cleaning. 
 
Now, …… the way I cleaned a mechanism …… was to liberally squirt lighter fluid on any shaft, shaft bearing or any two cogs that mesh together …. and especially down the shaft of the “minute” hand and/or the center of the “hour” hand shaft. (do said over a cloth to catch the drippies) Then shake the mechanism back n’ forth a couple time to get the “escapement” wheel rotating back n’ forth. (And if it don’t rotate you probably got a broken hairspring) Then let is set IN AN UPRIGHT POSITION for an hour a “ticking” hopefully. Then repeat a couple times to get all the crud flushed away.

Then put the oil to it, on any shaft, shaft bearing, etc., etc. as stated before, ……  right out of the can or with a Q-tip for places you can’t “drip” the oil on … and repeat the “shaking n’ ticking” procedure.

You should make sure it will “keep ticking” on it own for 8 to 24+ hours before you put it back in the case. And before you put it back in the case wipe any excess oil off of it.

It is really not that complicated to do, cheers

fancypants

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #12 on: October 16, 2009, 10:12:50 pm »
One little addentum to the lubrication discussion : Years ago , a clockmaker friend of mine told me that some old-timers would use shark oil for lubing mantle clocks ( some would even cook it down themselves ) .

Shark oil is/was a very high quality lubricant , but pretty hard on the shark population .

Japan used shark oil in aircraft engines during WW2 (for example) .
" Methinks me the 'mental' in sentimental .... "

cogar

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2009, 04:30:11 am »
Some more trivia on lubrication for anyone who is a fisherman or deals in fishing equipment.

Many fishing rods are 2 piece rods and the two pieces are joined together by a ferrule and it is always a good idea to lubricate the “male” end of the ferrule before they are joined together. And the most convenient, easily accessible, bestest oil to do this with, that a person always carries with them is …… “nose” oil. That’s right, nose oil or face oil. So, before you join the two pieces together place the “male” ferrule on the side of your nose or forehead and “twist” it around. This will lubricate it just enough for easier insertion and removal. 

regularjoe2

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Re: Small Clock Questions
« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2009, 07:26:40 am »
On the fishing hijack :

I've always used graphite for my 2-piece rods (pencil) - I'm an ultra-light gear Salmon fisher ....

Reminds me of the one about the Scottish fishermans' wife giving birth @ home .... they only had his Salmon scale to weigh the baby .....


& it turned out that the newborn was 31 lbs , 2 oz.