Let's see what it looks like in the flesh!

[mariok54]

Well, I bought this ink stand, mainly to house some of my fountain pens, and I've got a couple of dip pens as well, which need something like this.

I didn't pay a fortune for it, but probably a little over the top seeing its condition, the fact that the knob should probably have been a small ebonised one, and it'll cost me another £30 + to get a matching pair of wells, plus time to smarten it up.

But I'm pleased with it!!   

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190545709454&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&autorefresh=true

[waywardangler]

Looks decent to me and that ebonized (ebony?) knob would be an easy replacement on a small lathe. I am curious about all the small round circles with a center dot in the well bases. Was the wood roughed out with a drill bit in a brace and then chiseled out to the final depth? That's what it appears like to me. Definitely shows some age.

[Oceans64]

That will look very nice housing your pen collection

[talesofthesevenseas]

Very cool! Love it!

[mariok54]

I am curious about all the small round circles with a center dot in the well bases. Was the wood roughed out with a drill bit in a brace and then chiseled out to the final depth? That's what it appears like to me.

I noticed those as well, but with those pics you can't enlarge them. I'll give it a good once over when it arrives. At the end of the day, not a lot of money for a sweet little piece, if it's OK. 

[mariok54]

Well, my little ink stand arrived today. It looks a little tattier in the flesh, but I'm still really pleased with it. It was quite grubby, so I gave it a rub down with Meths and then white spirit, and already it started to look better. Next I'm going to treat it with a bit of a cocktail ... 2 parts Linseed, 2 parts Turps, 1 part Meths and 1  part white vinegar. A recipe my good neighbour recommended, and he knows quite a bit about wood.  Then I'll give it a good wax. I'm not going to sand it, I'd rather have it looking as if it's seen two new centuries in, but I will replace the baize.
The drawer has a piece missing, where it's split along the dovetail cut, but you can't see it, and I can live with it.
Funny, I originally thought that the little knob had been a later addition, but I'm not sure that it was. It is glass and not plastic, and it's well and truly embedded into the drawer, no screw as it's really quite thick.
This is only a mini project, but it'll keep me sane for a short while!   

[mariok54]

and ....

[waywardangler]

I think a piece from an old wooden cigar box, cut, fitted, and then stained could closely match that strip you are missing, mario. The wood grain appears very similar.

I am not sure about the (boiled?) Linseed oil cocktail being recommended anymore. I would just use paste wax after the cleaning.

It looks like a nice early piece with the handcut dovetails.

[mariok54]

That's a good idea, re cigar box, Wayward. I'd never heard of that cocktail before, but you obviously have. He used to do a lot of restoration at one time and either he picked it up in a book, or someone  passed that recipe on to him. Do you think it would 'harm' the wood in some way or just that a good wax is all that it needs and will be longer lasting? This could be useful for future projects.

[waywardangler]

Boiled linseed oil was used for years in finishes for wood surfaces and I would think there are plenty of old timers still using it or recommending it. I know there is/was a "finish feeder" for antique duck decoys that had boiled linseed oil as an ingredient. If the surface of the wood already has a finish such as varnish, shellac, tung oil, paint, etc, there is no "finish feeder" that does anything to the wood except lay on the surface and attract dust over time. It does 'brighten' up a dull surface temporarily and then it has to be applied again. Straight raw linseed oil MUST NEVER be used. Boiled linseed oil has a tendency to darken over time, becomes sticky, and attracts dust. From my readings, a thin coat of furniture paste wax applied once a year is all that is needed to preserve and protect a finished wood surface. I would not use a common brand of spray wax as they usually contain silicone (another darkener).

[mariok54]

That makes sense, Wayward.... I never use the spray polish (certainly not in recent years ... I was guilty of that for many years though!) only ever beeswax.

[mart]

When I had my shop I used the boiled linseed oil and turp mixture a lot. Not sure what Meths is ?? But vinegar in it ?? Vinegar is great for cleaning and will remove some old wax.  But as a polish to freshen up a piece I just used the oil and turp combo. If it wasn`t too bad I cut down on the linseed oil.

[mariok54]

Meths = Methylated spirit ... Now pink!  I did wonder about the vinegar ... I've used white spirit before just before giving something a fine sand .... and used vinegar to clean things around the house ... but it was a new one on me.

I'd already given it a treatment before Wayward's post, so it was a fait accompli ... and waxed it .... I must admit it is looking much better, but that could just be the beeswax and elbow grease (I'm still looking for a good retailer of the latter for you Wayward!). I'll post a pic when it's all done.

[waywardangler]

So I have been reading various articles on the use of boiled linseed oil as a finish and it is still recommended and used frequently. The big difference between that finish and varnish/shellac is the oil penetrates into the wood and varnish/shellac sits on top of the wood and seals it. Many, many thin coats of oil need to be applied and allowed to dry until the desired surface is achieved. Boiled linseed oil finishes tend to become sticky in humid environments and yellow ( darken) over time. Many new synthetic finishes stay clear and do not yellow.